Cheese Kadaif

Christmas is a time filled with holiday cheer - and- holiday desserts. 

Cookies are bountiful, but I’m on cookie-overload after the cookie-exchange party!

We were invited to the home of friends Bonnie and David for dinner, so I offered to bring something. Bonnie said anything would be fine, but if I just happened to be testing an Armenian recipe...
I wasn’t planning to test a recipe with Christmas shopping on my schedule, but I figured, “what the heck?"

So, this is what I made…. Cheese Kadaif (aka Kinaffeh).
I must warn you: if you're counting calories, this dessert might not be for you. 

This is actually easier to make than cookies, and it’s oh, so good! The hard part, at least in certain areas, is finding the kadaif dough.


FYI: Kadaif  dough is shredded phyllo dough which is sold fresh or frozen. As long as you have access to a Middle Eastern store, you should be able to find  the dough. A box of Shredded Wheat (the large size rolled cereal) can be used in place of the commercially prepared kadaif dough, but it needs to be softened in cold milk, and placed on a towel to drain. Separate the cereal rolls and continue the recipe as given below.


Here’s how to make Cheese Kadaif

Ingredients:
1 lb. package kadaif, defrosted and at room temperature
¾ lb. unsalted clarified butter*
1 lb. fresh mozzarella cheese**, or curd cheese, cut in 1/4inch slices

Directions:
1. In a large bowl, separate the shreds of dough, fluffing it with your fingers.
2. Pour the melted butter over the dough, tossing to distribute butter throughout. (See first photo.)
3. Distribute half of the dough in a 8” x12” inch baking pan. Gently press down dough.
4. Arrange all of the cheese slices on top of the dough.
5. Cover cheese with the remaining dough, distributing it evenly. 
6. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven, uncovered, for 45 minutes, or until golden brown.
7. Cut into serving pieces.
8. While still hot, pour some simple syrup*** over each piece. Let guests add more syrup, if desired.
9. Best served warm with steaming hot coffee.

* How to clarify butter: Slowly melt unsalted butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Let butter rest 5 minutes. Skim foam from the surface and discard. Ladle clarified (clear) butter into a bowl being careful not to scoop up any milk solids and water which have sunk to bottom of saucepan.

 **Robyn's note: I used Bel Gioioso Fresh Mozzarella. My local Publix (Hypoluxo & Lyons Rd, Lake Worth, FL) had a super deal on the cheese. Manager Eric, an Italian from Brooklyn, was selling it for $4.99 a pound instead of the usual $10.39 a pound. Who could pass up such a bargain?

***Simple Syrup:
2 cups sugar
1 cup water
A drop of lemon juice

Heat sugar and water in a saucepan until sugar is dissolved.
Add lemon juice.
Cool until ready to use.

By the way, Bonnie and David REALLY liked it, and so did we - if you don’t mind my saying. Hope you'll like it, too!

Cardamom-Pecan Cookies

Cardamom is a spice most folks associate with cookies, but it’s also used to enhance coffee, fruit salad, or meats. Its scent can be overpowering, but the flavor is pleasingly mild, if used in modest amounts.

Cardamom-pecan cookie ingredients

Ready to serve!

Since it’s cookie-baking time, I thought you might like to try my recipe for cardamom-pecan cookies, a kourabia-like cookie that simply melts in your mouth.

Cardamom-Pecan Cookies

Yield: about 3 dozen

Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar, divided
¾ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom seeds*
Dash salt
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans (walnuts can be substituted)

Directions:
1. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and half of the powdered sugar until smooth. Beat in the vanilla.
2. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cardamom and salt; gradually add to the creamed mixture. Gently stir in the pecans.
3. Roll into 1-in. balls. Place about 2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. 
4. Bake in a preheated 350° for 15-17 minutes or until edges turn a light brown.
5. Roll warm cookies in remaining powdered sugar. Cool on wire racks. 

*Note: If you can't find cardamom seeds to grind, you can use pre-ground cardamom, however, it might not offer the same flavor-punch as freshly ground seeds.
To store: Place cookies in an container with a tight-fitting lid. If you need to stack the cookies, be sure to place a piece of parchment or waxed paper in between each layer.

Cardamom rub

To children, the lure of coffee has always been one of the great adult mysteries:How could it be that the strong, bitter taste never justified all the begging and pleading required to get a sip from Mom's cup. 

To Armenian kids, an even greater mystery was the other coffee (the one that everyone we knew called Turkish coffee) served in those dainty little cups. Even more than the coffee itself, we were both fascinated by the little paper-like balls of cardamom floating in each cup, their exotic perfume rising with the coffee's steam. 

Usually, they were discarded like used tea bags after imparting their flavor, but Doug remembers his father occasionally chewing cardamom even without coffee. Armenians, he said, believed it was good for digestion. 

We aren't alone in attributing medicinal benefits to cardamom. It was thought throughout the ancient world to have almost mystical properties. The Roman poet Ovid wrote that the legendary Phoenix "does not live on seeds and herbs, but on drops of incense, and the sap of the cardamom plant." 

And while praising differing varieties of cardamom from around the world, the Greek botanist and healer Dioscorides recommended cardamom from Armenia.

These days, we're happy enough to find cardamom in the supermarket. It is sold in its pod, as seeds, or in ground form.

Cardamom’s flavor keeps best in pods; however, the seeds - when freshly ground - are quite robust. If you purchase cardamom in ground form, buy it in small quantities, as it loses its flavor quickly.

Cardamom has a unique taste: sweet-spicy, floral and somewhat similar to ginger. It’s more expensive than more common spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, but a little goes a long way.

Cardamom works well in baked goods (cookies, cakes), in coffee (even American coffee), in curries, citrus salads, in fall and winter squash recipes, lentil recipes, and with poultry and meat (generally as a rub).

A very simple recipe

This dry rub mix comes from Chef Cat Cora, a Food Network chef of Greek descent:
Combine ground cardamom, coriander and fennel. Use this as a dry rub on lamb before roasting.

Another simple and refreshing recipe:

Cardamom-Orange-Berry Salad
Yield: 4 to 5 servingsIngredients:
6 navel oranges (or whatever combination of oranges you like)
1 cup strawberries, washed, hulled and sliced (You can use your favorite berry in this)
1 to 2 Tbsp. honey (amount used depends on the sweetness of the fruit)
2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice (lime juice can be used, also)
¼ tsp. ground cardamom

Directions:
1. Working over a bowl, peel and section the oranges. Save any juice that collects in the bowl; it will be used to prepare a sauce for the fruit.
2. Place the orange segments and sliced strawberries in a serving bowl. Set aside.
3. In a saucepan, combine the juice from the oranges, honey, lemon
juice, and cardamom. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Cool.
4. Pour sauce over the orange-berry mixture. Gently toss to coat fruit with sauce.
5. Chill or serve immediately.

Armenian Style Chicken Liver

When I was probably six or seven, my father tried to trick me into eating lamb's liver by telling me it was Armenian fish.

This was not so ridiculous. It looked more like fish than, say, like steak or chicken. I could have just agreed and moved on.

But I was a skeptic even then.

I'd eaten liver without protest since I was younger, but now I wanted to know the whole story. My mother obliged by explaining that it was really a form of meat, but that only led to more questions and then to the awful moment when she told me it came from inside the lamb.

At that point, I wished I hadn't questioned my father's fish tale.

My liver-eating days were over, but only temporarily. I actually liked lamb's liver -- fried up crisp, dusted with ground coriander and served with sauteed onions and a sprinkle of fresh-squeezed lemon juice. Lamb's liver is much milder than beef or even veal liver and yet it has a distinctive and delicious flavor.

If you've never had it, you probably never will.

Lamb's liver just isn't part of the American diet. You might have luck at a Middle Eastern or Italian butcher, or you might not. We've pretty much given up asking -- and I'm not interested in substitutes.

Well, maybe one: chicken liver.

If they're familiar with chicken liver at all, most Americans think of the pate-like sandwich spread served at Jewish delis. Armenians usually cook chicken livers whole, which means they at least resemble the traditional cubed lamb or beef liver.

My mother made chicken liver often, but not for dinner. It was always an appetizer or snack because it's very rich, almost like eating butter. But even a small portion of chicken liver can be very satisfying. It makes a great meal served with rice along with bread and a salad.

It's also ridiculously cheap, especially when you consider that a little goes a very long way. We bought about a pound and a quarter for $1.89 -- and nearly half was left over. So we satisfied three very health appetites for about $1.

Like most livers, chicken liver is vitamin-rich and has only one real nutritional drawback: lots of cholesterol. We'd worry about that more if we ate bigger portions or served it more frequently.

Here's our recipe:

Armenian Style Chicken Livers (serves 3-4)
1 pound chicken livers
1 medium yellow onion
a few tablespoons of flour
olive oil or butter
1 teaspoon coriander
salt
pepper
fresh lemon (optional)

Trim connective tissue off the livers and cut larger pieces so they're all about the same size to ensure even cooking. Pat dry and dredge lightly in the flour.

Chop onion and sautee in butter (traditional) or olive oil (healthy choice) on medium-high heat.

As the onions start to brown, add the liver. Then add half the coriander, plus salt and pepper to your taste.

Brown the liver about four to five minutes, then turn and add the rest of the coriander plus salt and pepper.

Cook about another five minutes. It's done when the liver is brown all the way through but still soft.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Note: You can serve this dish over rice or make sandwiches on lavash or pita bread with chopped parsley and onions

Banerov Hatz (Cheese and onion Bread)

Remembering Hatz Baboog got me thinking about the different breads that make meal-time or holidays so special.

There is one bread that my grandmother, Yeranuhe Nanny, made that was truly outstanding --Banerov Hatz (Cheese-Onion Bread) -- another one of her labor-of-love recipes.

You knew a special event was just around the corner when Nanny started to chop so many onions. My mouth waters just thinking about it.

If you've never heard of Banerov Hatz, picture this: rectangular pizza dough rolled as thin or thick as you like, then smothered with some of the cheese-onion topping, baked until the dough is slightly crisp on the edges and golden on the bottom, the onions are tender, and the cheese is soft and slightly melted. The aroma is heavenly - and the taste, even better!
(FYI: My personal preference: thin crust.)


Banerov Hatz (Cheese-Onion Bread)
Yield: about 7 loaves

Dough Ingredients:
1 pkg. dry yeast
5 lb. bag pre-sifted flour
½ c. oil
1 ½ tsp salt
Water (about 5 cups)

Directions for dough preparation:
1. Dissolve yeast in ¼ cup lukewarm water.
2. In large bowl combine flour, oil, salt, dissolved yeast, and enough water to make a smooth dough. (The amount of water you use isn’t exact. There may be some trial-and error involved here.)
3. Knead dough for 5 minutes. Place in a large bowl.
4. Lightly oil the top of the dough. Cover, and let rise for 30 minutes to an hour.
5. Divide dough into 7 balls, keeping them covered until ready to use. (Short on time? Buy prepared pizza dough in your local grocery store!)

Cheese-Onion Topping Ingredients:
2 lbs cottage cheese
4 to 5 lbs finely chopped onions (Frozen, chopped onions that are defrosted can be used, but that’s cheating!)
4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled
½ cup parmesan cheese
½ tsp. cumin
½ tsp. allspice
½ tsp. paprika
3 Tbsp. dried oregano
3 Tbsp. red pepper paste (Note: Red pepper paste can be purchased in some Middle Eastern stores. If it is unavailable, you can use tomato paste, but something will be lost in the substitution.)
1 cup olive oil

Topping Directions:
1.Combine cottage cheese and some of the red pepper paste to achieve a reddish color.
2. In a separate bowl add onions, blue cheese, parmesan cheese, and seasonings, mixing well.
3. Add the cottage cheese and stir well.

Assembling Directions:
1. Lightly grease a large baking sheet.
2. Roll out one ball of dough into a rectangular shape large enough to fit into the baking sheet.
3. Spread cheese filling all over the dough.
4. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven until dough is golden brown on the bottom and around the edges (approx. 20 minutes).
5. Continue this procedure until all 7 loaves are done.
6. Cool each loaf completely.
7. To serve: cut into large squares (roughly 3“x3“).
8. To store: completely cool, cut each loaf into squares. Wrap and freeze. When ready to serve, defrost in the refrigerator, then heat in a 350°F oven until warm

Basic Vegetable Broth

Finished Product

Basic Vegetable Broth 


Ingredients:


1 onion, skin on, cut into chunks
2 carrots, rinsed, cut into chunks 
2 stalks celery, rinsed, cut into chunks
1 large potato, scrubbed, skin on, cut into chunks
1 cup mushrooms, (any kind), wiped clean, cut in half
3 whole garlic cloves, peeled and slightly smashed
½ bunch Italian parsley, thoroughly washed, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. soy sauce, optional
8 cups water
salt and pepper to taste


Directions:


1. Place all ingredients in a large pot; bring to a boil.
2. Reduce heat and simmer for at least an hour.
3. Strain the solid ingredients and discard. Allow to cool a bit.
4. Place in a bowl with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate until ready to use up to 3 days. To freeze for later use, place broth in several small containers with tight-fitting lids. Label and date each container.

Bastegh (Armenian grape candy)

Have you ever heard of "Nanny Candy?"

If you’re Armenian, and you have or had a grandmother, then you know exactly what I’m talking about.

My grandmother, Yeranuhe Nanny, always had candy in her house - but not American candy like Hershey’s Kisses or Snicker’s bars.

Her favorites were candy-coated dried chick peas, and pastel-colored, sugar covered almonds that were so hard you were afraid you’d break a tooth. Then there was the glass bowl on her coffee table filled with sugary, multi-colored hard candies that would invariably clump together from the humidity, making it impossible to separate.

Occasionally, as we’d be driving home from church, Nanny would rummage through her purse, pull out a crumpled but clean tissue, and offer us kids some of her “special” traveling candy. She’d carefully unwrap the tissue to display the selection, expecting us to joyfully pick a favorite.

Much to our dismay, we’d find that each piece was covered in tissue lint. She never quite understood why we rejected her sweet treat offer.

There’s only one candy that Nanny had that we didn't reject. Bastegh, or Fruit Leather. Hers was a homemade delight. She didn’t make it often, but when she did, it didn’t last long because it tasted so good! Nanny used the grapes from her backyard vine and extracted the juice- a messy and tedious procedure. To make things simpler, the modern-day cook is wise to use bottled grape juice.

Here’s how to make Bastegh:

Ingredients:
3 cups of purple grape juice
granulated sugar to taste (1/4 cup - more or less)
1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
Cornstarch, for later use

Directions:
1. In a large pot, combine the juice and sugar. Heat gently until the sugar begins to dissolve.
2. Slowly whisk in the sifted flour. Be sure the flour is well-blended to prevent lumping. If lumps appear, carefully pour grape mixture through a strainer, discarding any lumps. Return grape mixture to pot.
3. Bring mixture to a gentle boil, stirring constantly.
4. When the mixture begins to thicken, remove pot from the heat. Allow to cool to lukewarm.
5. Place parchment paper on 2 baking sheets. Dividing the mixture in half, spread it to a thickness of 1/8 inch using an off-set spatula, or the back of a large spoon. Allow about an inch or more of the edge parchment paper to show or else you’ll have trouble hanging it to dry or peeling the paper away from the fruit leather later on. (Special note: this is a messy procedure, so spread extra parchment paper around the table to collect any drips.)
6. Allow to set for 24 hours.
7. Hang the fruit sheet(s) on a line to dry - about a day or two. If drying indoors, place parchment or newspaper on the floor - just in case!
8. When the fruit sheet is dry, carefully peel away the parchment paper and discard.
9. Sprinkle cornstarch on the fruit leather to prevent it from sticking.

To serve:
Cut fruit leather into strips or squares. Wrap the leather around a piece of walnut - or any other kind of nut, and enjoy! Eating it plain is great, too.
To store:
Place pieces in a plastic bag, or cover tightly in plastic wrap, and store in the refrigerator.

Don’t like grape juice? This recipe can be made with apple juice, too.

WARNING: Don't try to make bastegh when it's hot and humid. Trust me, I know. After the bastegh set for 24 hours, I hung the sheets of grape-covered parchment paper, as directed.
Within 20 minutes I noticed purple globs on the tile floor- not a pretty sight! (See above photo for "what not to do".)