Chorag, Zeytoonian style

I bumped into an old friend, Joe Zeytoonian, teacher and musician, at the Armenian Genocide program last week in Boca Raton.

We began to reminisce about our dear, departed family members. Joe was saying how much he misses his mother - Rose, a gentle woman who was dedicated to her family and church - and her delicious chorag.

Joe said he and his wife tried to make a video of Rose preparing her chorag recipe in her later years, but there was some technical difficulty with the video camera, and it didn’t turn out. They were extremely disappointed.

Excitedly, I told Joe that Rose had given me her chorag recipe about 25 years ago, but that I’ve never made it. So, Joe, here’s your mother’s recipe! Give it a try - for Rose.

Rose Zeytoonian’s Chorag
Ingredients:
3 pkg. dry yeast
7 cups flour
2 sticks butter
¾ cup sugar
1 cup milk
4 eggs

Directions:
1. Dissolve yeast in warm water (about ¼ - ½ cup). Put one tsp. sugar in
the yeast.
2. Melt butter, milk and sugar. Bring to a boil, then cool. The milk mixture should be a little warm.
3. Beat eggs slightly.
4. Mix the flour with the dissolved yeast, milk mixture, and eggs until a dough is formed.
5. Cover, and let rise 3 hours.
6. Shape. Let rise again in tray - 1 hour.
7. Brush tops with egg. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.
8. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven until golden brown.

Chorag

Chorag

Chorag is a traditional Armenian braided yeast roll. Some like sweet chorag; others a bit savory, so the recipe varies from household to household.

But whatever your preference, chorag is always served with cheese and strong coffee.

Some cooks might be a bit intimidated by the intricate shape, but don't be fooled. It's a snap. Check out the video by clicking Read more! for the recipe.




 

A dear family friend, Anne Marootian, is one of the best Armenian cooks I know. I don’t know how much cooking she still does now that she's in her 90's, but to me she’s still the “Queen of Chorag.”

Here's a slightly modified version of her recipe for crisp, flaky chorag that tastes rich but feels light.

Anne Marootian’s Chorag 

Yield: Approximately 2 ½ to 3 dozen


Ingredients:

½ lb. unsalted butter

1 cup milk

¼ cup sugar

½ tsp salt

1 egg

1 Tbsp. each of GROUND mahlab**, fennel seed, anise seed

(** Mahlab is the dried “heart” of the cherry pit. It can be purchased in most Middle Eastern stores. If you can’t find it, you can omit it; the taste will be slightly different, but still delicious.)

½ tsp ground ginger

1 pkg. dry yeast

2 Tbsp. baking powder

5 to 5 1/2 cups flour

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1 egg beaten with 1 Tbsp. of water (for egg wash)

Directions:

1. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add milk and heat gently. Cool.

2. Beat egg and add to cooled milk.

3. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in ¼ cup warm water (about 105-110° F). You can check the temperature with a food thermometer, or by putting a drop on your wrist. If it feels comfortable to your wrist, the temp. is good to go. Set aside.

4. Mix sugar, salt, spices, and baking powder together. Set aside.

5. Place 5 cups of the flour into a large mixing bowl. Combine the blended spice mixture into the flour.

6. Add the milk-egg mixture to the dry ingredients. Stir in the dissolved yeast, and mix well.

7. Place dough on a lightly floured work surface and knead dough until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. If the dough seems a bit sticky, add some of the extra ½ cup flour that wasn’t used earlier.

8. Place dough in a large, clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then cover that with a towel. Allow to rise for 2 hours.

9. Break off about a golf ball-size piece of dough. Roll it into a long, thin rope, about 16 inches in length. Break off about one-third of the dough. Shape the longer piece of dough into a horseshoe (U) shape. Place the shorter piece of dough in the center of the “U”, and begin braiding the 3 strips of dough.

10. Place the braided dough on an ungreased baking sheet. Continue to shape dough until tray is full. (Don’t place chorags too close to each other. Give them room to expand while they bake.)

11. Let shaped dough rise on the tray for one more hour before baking.

12. Brush tops with beaten egg. (This is the egg wash.)

13. Bake at 375° F. on the bottom oven rack until the bottom of the chorag is golden (about 15 minutes). Then transfer the tray to the top rack until the top of the chorag is golden (about another 5 minutes). Cool chorag on cooling racks.

14. Continue this procedure until all dough is shaped and baked.

15. Store completely cooled chorag in a container with a tight-fitting lid, or place in freezer bags, and freeze until ready to serve. They can be thawed in the microwave - simply wrap each chorag in a paper towel, and microwave for about 30 seconds on low to medium power, or until defrosted.

SPECIAL NOTE: This recipe can easily be doubled.

Chor Mees (Dried Meat)

Recipe requests keep coming in…..
The latest request came from R.J. who wrote,

“Hi Robyn,
My grandmother use to make something called, "Chord-Meese" (phonetic). It was cured meat that she put in cheese cloth and made only in the fall/winter and hung in our cold pantry to cure. It is not Soujook and it is not Basturma....but I can't believe this recipe is a secret to others... Thank you.”
********************

 

Chor Mees (Google image)

  R.J., I think I have what you’re looking for. It’s “Chor Mees”, dried meat. Our preferred recipe comes from the “Assyrian Cookbook”, as it is the closest to the Dickranagerdtsi –style of cooking. It’s best to make this in cooler weather.


Chor Mees 
Ingredients:


1 leg or shoulder, lean lamb, (about 3 lbs.) finely ground (beef can also be used – or combine the 2)
ground allspice, to taste
freshly ground coriander seed, to taste
Salt and pepper to taste


Feel free to add any of your favorite spices: cayenne pepper, cumin, cinnamon, etc. according to your taste.
(Note: Since there are no preservatives other than salt, be a bit more generous with the salt measurement.)
*******************************
Cheesecloth
Needle and thread
*****************************
Directions:
1. Thoroughly mix all of the ingredients together. Suggestion: Cook a small patty of the meat mixture to determine taste. Adjust seasonings, if necessary.
2. Sew 2 or 3 cheesecloth bags measuring about 7-inch by 12-inch bags. Seams should be on the outside of the bags.
3. Fill bags about ¾ full. Leave about 2 “at the opening of the bag. Flatten with your hand to about ½ to ¾ inch thickness. Tie opening securely with a heavy string. Make a double knot, then make a loop about 2 to 3 inches long. This is for hanging while drying. 
4. Flatten bags with a rolling pin to remove all air bubbles.
5. Place bags on top of each other on a flat surface with a heavy weight on top in a cool place. Put a board on top and store with a heavy weight on top. Refrigerate overnight. Next day, take a long stick and pass it through the loops of the bags. Hang in a cool, shady place to dry. (Note: chor mees can be hung by an open window, on a screened porch or in a garage.) Pack the bags under a heavy weight for 2 more nights in the refrigerator, hanging them to dry in a cool, shady place during the day. Continue this procedure for 5 to 7 days. Drying time will depend on the weather. The more dampness in the air, the longer it will take to dry.
6. Chor Mees will be ready to serve when the exterior is hardened.
7. Store in the refrigerator if using right away. Otherwise, slice it and wrap in plastic bags, then store in the freezer. 
8. To serve: slice in thin pieces, and serve with pita bread, or fry and serve with eggs. Delicious!

Chicken in a Pot

In response to Jennifer G.’s search for a recipe for Armenian chicken in a pot with potatoes, Ara Kassabian offered the following suggestion. Now we await Jennifer’s thoughts.



“Jennifer's chicken in a pot sounds like an Armenian version of an etouffee. The two key missing pieces of information are: 1) what were the herbs she mentions? and 2) was there any sauce (like tomato sauce)? Despite this, however, it sounds pretty simple. Here is one suggestion:


1 whole chicken (2-3 pounds), cut up
2 medium size potatoes, sliced into 1/2 inch slices
Salt, pepper
Fresh herbs (see below)
Vegetable oil, such as safflower, canola, etc., or clarified butter
Chopped garlic?


Armenians from different parts of Armenia would most likely use different herbs. Not knowing anything about Jennifer's grandmas, I am suggesting using 1 bunch of either tarragon or dill or savory. Personally, I would go for the tarragon. Just wash the herbs, take the leafs off the stem but leave them whole.


Depending on the herb you use, you might want to consider adding some chopped garlic. If so, use sparingly so as not to overpower the flavor of the herbs.

Preparation:


Coat the bottom of a dutch oven or tight-fitting pot with the oil (about 2-3 tbsp). Layer the potatoes at the bottom (one layer), then layer the chicken pieces on top, starting with the dark meat. Salt and pepper as you go. Add a 1/4 cup water. If you are using garlic, add the garlic.


Note: The pot should be big enough that the food should not come up to more than halfway. If not using a dutch oven, you could tie a kitchen towel around the lid to improve the seal. In the old days, they would use dough, formed into a ring.

Cover tightly, bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer for about 1/2 hour. Open the pot, quickly pile the herbs on top and close. If the water has completely evaporated, then add a little water (a few tablespoons at most). Close again and place on the fire for another 1/2 hour. Even though Jennifer says it would cook all day, I don't think it should take more than an hour, depending on the size of the chicken (maybe two hours). It occurs to me that you could equally well make this in the oven, if you have an oven-proof dish. Maybe a couple of hours at 350F.


When it's done, let it rest for a few minutes, then serve. I would suggest serving with a sauce on the side. Depending on the herbs you use, I could do a quick lemon-garlic sauce, or even a sweet chutney (maybe some apricot jam diluted in a little water, butter, with some ground walnut).


An Armenian friend of my mom (from the Republic of Armenia) had a similar, very simple chicken recipe: Take a whole, cut up, chicken, 1 cup rice, put them in a pressure cooker with very little water (about a cup?) and of course salt/pepper. Cook it for about 1/2 hour. I think you could also layer potatoes at the bottom of the pressure cooker. They would get crispy on the bottom. There is no need for fat because the chicken renders its own fat.

Cherry Liqueur

Photo from stumptownsavoury.com

An interesting recipe for Cherry Liqueur just came my way via Annie Samuelian Alexanian. I’m in a hurry to post this because the cherry's peak season is just about over. So rush to the market while fresh cherries are still available!

In order to make cherry liqueur, start with the best cherries you can find, add the necessary ingredients, and let it ferment so that it will be ready to serve by Christmas.


Annie says:
“For one kilogram( 2.2 lbs.) of cherries, (I use the) same amount of sugar. I use whole cherries stems removed. I add half bottle of gin and half bottle of arak (it's like vodka with anise flavor) adding whole cloves and cinnamon sticks. I keep the jar for several months,@ xmas time it's ready to be served after being chilled in the fridge."

Clarification: When Annie says she keeps the cherry mixture in the jar for several months, the jar is kept at room temperature. Once opened, keep the jar in the refrigerator.

Chemen (Chaman,Chaiman)

When reader, Bob, asked for a recipe for chamanichur, it turned out what he really wanted was  a sauce recipe containing chaman (chaiman, chemen). His grandmother used to make it and serve it with liver. You might best-know this recipe as the pasty coating that coversbasterma, however, chamanichur is thinned out. When I sent Bob a recipe I found in one of my Armenian Church cookbooks, he was overjoyed and anxious to make it.  One BIG catch: he lives in Spain, and finding fenugreek became a monumental challenge. Fortunately, Bob was able to find a source on the internet, and promptly placed an order for ground fenugreek seeds. Bob promises to send a photo of his finished product once he has all of the necessary ingredients.

So, what is fenugreek, you ask? Fenugreek is an aromatic plant with pleasingly bitter, slightly sweet seeds, used as a spice. The leaves, which aren’t readily available in the United States, can be used as an herb in salads. The leaves and sprouts of the plant can also be eaten as vegetables.
Fenugreek seeds can be purchased whole or ground, and generally are used in curry powders, spice blends and teas.

Wikipedia notes the following:

1. For arthritis sufferers: It is believed that drinking 1 cup of fenugreek tea per day, made from the leaves, can help relieve the discomfort of arthritis pain. 
(Too bad the leaves are hard to find in the US; I might have to check into this, but  wonder if there would be any side effects, hmmmm.)

2. Fenugreek is a good source of high dietary fiber. Taking a few seeds with warm water before going to sleep helps avoid constipation.

And now for the recipe…

Chemen
From the cookbook ’Armenian Cuisine: Preserving Our Heritage’, St. John Armenian Church, Southfield, Michigan. Recipe submitted by: Nancy Kazarian and Dolly Matoian

Ingredients:
½ cup ground fenugreek seeds (chemen)
½ cup paprika
4 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. cayenne (red pepper)
4 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. pepper
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
7/8 to 1 cup water

Directions:
1. Using amount desired, combine in a large bowl, all ingredients except the garlic and water.
2. Add the crushed garlic according to your taste. Begin adding water, a little at a time, so that the mixture has the consistency of cake batter.
3. This mixture can be used in various geragoors  with spinach, lamb, etc., or in Armenian hamburgers, or even in pastry dough for mezza. It can be kept in a plastic bag or bottle in the freezer, to be used as needed. The recipe may be doubled or tripled.

Homemade Basterma - a Labor of Love

Not everyone is fortunate enough to have a Middle Eastern store nearby to purchase ready-to-eat favorites. 
Just ask reader Mario of Queensland, Australia. He requested a recipe for homemade basterma because there's no place for him to buy it, and his local butcher can't create this recipe for him. Mario, originally from Alexandria,Egypt, said the best basterma in Egypt was made by the Armenian community. In Australia, he was able to buy thinly sliced basterma in Melbourne and Sydney, but noted that no one in Queensland even knows what it is.

Depending on where you live, October and November are said to be the best months for making this favored delicacy. (Mario reminded me that Australia's seasons are opposite those of North America, so those months don't necessarily work for him.)

Making homemade basterma requires the patience of a saint. You’ve got to set aside plenty of time for curing the meat. Mario, I hope you're a patient guy!


Top-quality meat is the key to tender basterma, and having a favorable relationship with the local butcher is a must.

When you’re ready to tackle the job, tell the butcher what you are planning to make, then ask him to cut a 2 to 3 pound piece of boneless beef from the rib section about 1 to 1 ½ inches thick. 

If, after reading the directions, you’re concerned about the food safety aspect of making basterma, don’t worry. According to Irina Petrossian, author of “Armenian Food - Fact, Fiction and Folklore”, bacterial growth (in basterma) is prevented because the meat is dry-cured with salt, and, because fenugreek is a key ingredient in the paste, it acts as a natural insect repellent. 

Feel better? Roll up your sleeves, put on your apron, and give it a go...

Homemade Basterma


2 to 3 lbs. boneless beef (from rib section, 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)
½ cup Kosher salt
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For the Paste:


1/4 cup paprika
1/4 cup chaman (ground fenugreek seeds) - Found in specialty shops or well-stocked grocery or Middle Eastern stores
1 tablespoon allspice
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp cumin
½ tsp cayenne pepper
3 small cloves garlic, pressed or finely minced

1 cup (or more) cold water

Directions:


Using a fork, pierce the meat all over. This will allow the salt to penetrate. Cut the meat in two equal pieces, then with a large needle, thread a heavy twine or string through one end of each piece of the meat and tie it into a loop. This will be used to hang the meat when curing. 

Generously sprinkle each section of meat with Kosher salt on all sides. Lay meat on a pan and refrigerate for 3 days. Turn meat once a day to keep coated with salt.

On the fourth day, remove salt from the meat. Wash meat thoroughly, then soak in cold water for about an hour. Drain and pat meat dry using paper towels, making sure excess moisture is removed.

Create 2 bags out of cheesecloth to hold each section of meat. Place meat in bags, and hang from the loops in a cool dry place** - or the refrigerator - for about 2 weeks. 


(**If you hang the meat in a cool dry place rather than the refrigerator, be sure to bring the meat inside if the weather becomes rainy or damp.)

After the 2 weeks are up, combine all of the ingredients for making the paste, stirring in water a little at a time. Stir until a smooth, thin paste is formed. (Note: the paste can be made in advance and kept in the refrigerator until ready to use.)

Remove the meat from the cloth bags, saving them for later use. 

Cover the dried meat completely with the paste; let stand for about 2 weeks in a pan. Turn the meat every couple of days to keep covered with the paste. At the end of the second week, remove meat from the paste and return each piece to the cloth bags. Hang outdoors for one more week of drying. Remember, if it’s damp outside, hang the basterma in a cool dry place inside.

After the second drying period, the basterma will be ready to serve.

To serve, slice into paper-thin pieces. Best eaten with lavash, olives and Armenian string cheese. (A little Arak wouldn't hurt either!)


To store, keep in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator. 
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Now that Mario has the recipe, he understands why prepared basterma is so expensive. To make it at home is truly a labor of love.

Cheese Kadaif

Christmas is a time filled with holiday cheer - and- holiday desserts. 

Cookies are bountiful, but I’m on cookie-overload after the cookie-exchange party!

We were invited to the home of friends Bonnie and David for dinner, so I offered to bring something. Bonnie said anything would be fine, but if I just happened to be testing an Armenian recipe...
I wasn’t planning to test a recipe with Christmas shopping on my schedule, but I figured, “what the heck?"

So, this is what I made…. Cheese Kadaif (aka Kinaffeh).
I must warn you: if you're counting calories, this dessert might not be for you. 

This is actually easier to make than cookies, and it’s oh, so good! The hard part, at least in certain areas, is finding the kadaif dough.


FYI: Kadaif  dough is shredded phyllo dough which is sold fresh or frozen. As long as you have access to a Middle Eastern store, you should be able to find  the dough. A box of Shredded Wheat (the large size rolled cereal) can be used in place of the commercially prepared kadaif dough, but it needs to be softened in cold milk, and placed on a towel to drain. Separate the cereal rolls and continue the recipe as given below.


Here’s how to make Cheese Kadaif

Ingredients:
1 lb. package kadaif, defrosted and at room temperature
¾ lb. unsalted clarified butter*
1 lb. fresh mozzarella cheese**, or curd cheese, cut in 1/4inch slices

Directions:
1. In a large bowl, separate the shreds of dough, fluffing it with your fingers.
2. Pour the melted butter over the dough, tossing to distribute butter throughout. (See first photo.)
3. Distribute half of the dough in a 8” x12” inch baking pan. Gently press down dough.
4. Arrange all of the cheese slices on top of the dough.
5. Cover cheese with the remaining dough, distributing it evenly. 
6. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven, uncovered, for 45 minutes, or until golden brown.
7. Cut into serving pieces.
8. While still hot, pour some simple syrup*** over each piece. Let guests add more syrup, if desired.
9. Best served warm with steaming hot coffee.

* How to clarify butter: Slowly melt unsalted butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Let butter rest 5 minutes. Skim foam from the surface and discard. Ladle clarified (clear) butter into a bowl being careful not to scoop up any milk solids and water which have sunk to bottom of saucepan.

 **Robyn's note: I used Bel Gioioso Fresh Mozzarella. My local Publix (Hypoluxo & Lyons Rd, Lake Worth, FL) had a super deal on the cheese. Manager Eric, an Italian from Brooklyn, was selling it for $4.99 a pound instead of the usual $10.39 a pound. Who could pass up such a bargain?

***Simple Syrup:
2 cups sugar
1 cup water
A drop of lemon juice

Heat sugar and water in a saucepan until sugar is dissolved.
Add lemon juice.
Cool until ready to use.

By the way, Bonnie and David REALLY liked it, and so did we - if you don’t mind my saying. Hope you'll like it, too!

Cardamom-Pecan Cookies

Cardamom is a spice most folks associate with cookies, but it’s also used to enhance coffee, fruit salad, or meats. Its scent can be overpowering, but the flavor is pleasingly mild, if used in modest amounts.

Cardamom-pecan cookie ingredients

Ready to serve!

Since it’s cookie-baking time, I thought you might like to try my recipe for cardamom-pecan cookies, a kourabia-like cookie that simply melts in your mouth.

Cardamom-Pecan Cookies

Yield: about 3 dozen

Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar, divided
¾ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom seeds*
Dash salt
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans (walnuts can be substituted)

Directions:
1. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and half of the powdered sugar until smooth. Beat in the vanilla.
2. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cardamom and salt; gradually add to the creamed mixture. Gently stir in the pecans.
3. Roll into 1-in. balls. Place about 2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. 
4. Bake in a preheated 350° for 15-17 minutes or until edges turn a light brown.
5. Roll warm cookies in remaining powdered sugar. Cool on wire racks. 

*Note: If you can't find cardamom seeds to grind, you can use pre-ground cardamom, however, it might not offer the same flavor-punch as freshly ground seeds.
To store: Place cookies in an container with a tight-fitting lid. If you need to stack the cookies, be sure to place a piece of parchment or waxed paper in between each layer.

Cardamom rub

To children, the lure of coffee has always been one of the great adult mysteries:How could it be that the strong, bitter taste never justified all the begging and pleading required to get a sip from Mom's cup. 

To Armenian kids, an even greater mystery was the other coffee (the one that everyone we knew called Turkish coffee) served in those dainty little cups. Even more than the coffee itself, we were both fascinated by the little paper-like balls of cardamom floating in each cup, their exotic perfume rising with the coffee's steam. 

Usually, they were discarded like used tea bags after imparting their flavor, but Doug remembers his father occasionally chewing cardamom even without coffee. Armenians, he said, believed it was good for digestion. 

We aren't alone in attributing medicinal benefits to cardamom. It was thought throughout the ancient world to have almost mystical properties. The Roman poet Ovid wrote that the legendary Phoenix "does not live on seeds and herbs, but on drops of incense, and the sap of the cardamom plant." 

And while praising differing varieties of cardamom from around the world, the Greek botanist and healer Dioscorides recommended cardamom from Armenia.

These days, we're happy enough to find cardamom in the supermarket. It is sold in its pod, as seeds, or in ground form.

Cardamom’s flavor keeps best in pods; however, the seeds - when freshly ground - are quite robust. If you purchase cardamom in ground form, buy it in small quantities, as it loses its flavor quickly.

Cardamom has a unique taste: sweet-spicy, floral and somewhat similar to ginger. It’s more expensive than more common spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, but a little goes a long way.

Cardamom works well in baked goods (cookies, cakes), in coffee (even American coffee), in curries, citrus salads, in fall and winter squash recipes, lentil recipes, and with poultry and meat (generally as a rub).

A very simple recipe

This dry rub mix comes from Chef Cat Cora, a Food Network chef of Greek descent:
Combine ground cardamom, coriander and fennel. Use this as a dry rub on lamb before roasting.

Another simple and refreshing recipe:

Cardamom-Orange-Berry Salad
Yield: 4 to 5 servingsIngredients:
6 navel oranges (or whatever combination of oranges you like)
1 cup strawberries, washed, hulled and sliced (You can use your favorite berry in this)
1 to 2 Tbsp. honey (amount used depends on the sweetness of the fruit)
2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice (lime juice can be used, also)
¼ tsp. ground cardamom

Directions:
1. Working over a bowl, peel and section the oranges. Save any juice that collects in the bowl; it will be used to prepare a sauce for the fruit.
2. Place the orange segments and sliced strawberries in a serving bowl. Set aside.
3. In a saucepan, combine the juice from the oranges, honey, lemon
juice, and cardamom. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Cool.
4. Pour sauce over the orange-berry mixture. Gently toss to coat fruit with sauce.
5. Chill or serve immediately.