Chorag, Zeytoonian style

I bumped into an old friend, Joe Zeytoonian, teacher and musician, at the Armenian Genocide program last week in Boca Raton.

We began to reminisce about our dear, departed family members. Joe was saying how much he misses his mother - Rose, a gentle woman who was dedicated to her family and church - and her delicious chorag.

Joe said he and his wife tried to make a video of Rose preparing her chorag recipe in her later years, but there was some technical difficulty with the video camera, and it didn’t turn out. They were extremely disappointed.

Excitedly, I told Joe that Rose had given me her chorag recipe about 25 years ago, but that I’ve never made it. So, Joe, here’s your mother’s recipe! Give it a try - for Rose.

Rose Zeytoonian’s Chorag
Ingredients:
3 pkg. dry yeast
7 cups flour
2 sticks butter
¾ cup sugar
1 cup milk
4 eggs

Directions:
1. Dissolve yeast in warm water (about ¼ - ½ cup). Put one tsp. sugar in
the yeast.
2. Melt butter, milk and sugar. Bring to a boil, then cool. The milk mixture should be a little warm.
3. Beat eggs slightly.
4. Mix the flour with the dissolved yeast, milk mixture, and eggs until a dough is formed.
5. Cover, and let rise 3 hours.
6. Shape. Let rise again in tray - 1 hour.
7. Brush tops with egg. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.
8. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven until golden brown.

Chorag

Chorag

Chorag is a traditional Armenian braided yeast roll. Some like sweet chorag; others a bit savory, so the recipe varies from household to household.

But whatever your preference, chorag is always served with cheese and strong coffee.

Some cooks might be a bit intimidated by the intricate shape, but don't be fooled. It's a snap. Check out the video by clicking Read more! for the recipe.




 

A dear family friend, Anne Marootian, is one of the best Armenian cooks I know. I don’t know how much cooking she still does now that she's in her 90's, but to me she’s still the “Queen of Chorag.”

Here's a slightly modified version of her recipe for crisp, flaky chorag that tastes rich but feels light.

Anne Marootian’s Chorag 

Yield: Approximately 2 ½ to 3 dozen


Ingredients:

½ lb. unsalted butter

1 cup milk

¼ cup sugar

½ tsp salt

1 egg

1 Tbsp. each of GROUND mahlab**, fennel seed, anise seed

(** Mahlab is the dried “heart” of the cherry pit. It can be purchased in most Middle Eastern stores. If you can’t find it, you can omit it; the taste will be slightly different, but still delicious.)

½ tsp ground ginger

1 pkg. dry yeast

2 Tbsp. baking powder

5 to 5 1/2 cups flour

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1 egg beaten with 1 Tbsp. of water (for egg wash)

Directions:

1. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add milk and heat gently. Cool.

2. Beat egg and add to cooled milk.

3. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in ¼ cup warm water (about 105-110° F). You can check the temperature with a food thermometer, or by putting a drop on your wrist. If it feels comfortable to your wrist, the temp. is good to go. Set aside.

4. Mix sugar, salt, spices, and baking powder together. Set aside.

5. Place 5 cups of the flour into a large mixing bowl. Combine the blended spice mixture into the flour.

6. Add the milk-egg mixture to the dry ingredients. Stir in the dissolved yeast, and mix well.

7. Place dough on a lightly floured work surface and knead dough until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. If the dough seems a bit sticky, add some of the extra ½ cup flour that wasn’t used earlier.

8. Place dough in a large, clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then cover that with a towel. Allow to rise for 2 hours.

9. Break off about a golf ball-size piece of dough. Roll it into a long, thin rope, about 16 inches in length. Break off about one-third of the dough. Shape the longer piece of dough into a horseshoe (U) shape. Place the shorter piece of dough in the center of the “U”, and begin braiding the 3 strips of dough.

10. Place the braided dough on an ungreased baking sheet. Continue to shape dough until tray is full. (Don’t place chorags too close to each other. Give them room to expand while they bake.)

11. Let shaped dough rise on the tray for one more hour before baking.

12. Brush tops with beaten egg. (This is the egg wash.)

13. Bake at 375° F. on the bottom oven rack until the bottom of the chorag is golden (about 15 minutes). Then transfer the tray to the top rack until the top of the chorag is golden (about another 5 minutes). Cool chorag on cooling racks.

14. Continue this procedure until all dough is shaped and baked.

15. Store completely cooled chorag in a container with a tight-fitting lid, or place in freezer bags, and freeze until ready to serve. They can be thawed in the microwave - simply wrap each chorag in a paper towel, and microwave for about 30 seconds on low to medium power, or until defrosted.

SPECIAL NOTE: This recipe can easily be doubled.

Chor Mees (Dried Meat)

Recipe requests keep coming in…..
The latest request came from R.J. who wrote,

“Hi Robyn,
My grandmother use to make something called, "Chord-Meese" (phonetic). It was cured meat that she put in cheese cloth and made only in the fall/winter and hung in our cold pantry to cure. It is not Soujook and it is not Basturma....but I can't believe this recipe is a secret to others... Thank you.”
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Chor Mees (Google image)

  R.J., I think I have what you’re looking for. It’s “Chor Mees”, dried meat. Our preferred recipe comes from the “Assyrian Cookbook”, as it is the closest to the Dickranagerdtsi –style of cooking. It’s best to make this in cooler weather.


Chor Mees 
Ingredients:


1 leg or shoulder, lean lamb, (about 3 lbs.) finely ground (beef can also be used – or combine the 2)
ground allspice, to taste
freshly ground coriander seed, to taste
Salt and pepper to taste


Feel free to add any of your favorite spices: cayenne pepper, cumin, cinnamon, etc. according to your taste.
(Note: Since there are no preservatives other than salt, be a bit more generous with the salt measurement.)
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Cheesecloth
Needle and thread
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Directions:
1. Thoroughly mix all of the ingredients together. Suggestion: Cook a small patty of the meat mixture to determine taste. Adjust seasonings, if necessary.
2. Sew 2 or 3 cheesecloth bags measuring about 7-inch by 12-inch bags. Seams should be on the outside of the bags.
3. Fill bags about ¾ full. Leave about 2 “at the opening of the bag. Flatten with your hand to about ½ to ¾ inch thickness. Tie opening securely with a heavy string. Make a double knot, then make a loop about 2 to 3 inches long. This is for hanging while drying. 
4. Flatten bags with a rolling pin to remove all air bubbles.
5. Place bags on top of each other on a flat surface with a heavy weight on top in a cool place. Put a board on top and store with a heavy weight on top. Refrigerate overnight. Next day, take a long stick and pass it through the loops of the bags. Hang in a cool, shady place to dry. (Note: chor mees can be hung by an open window, on a screened porch or in a garage.) Pack the bags under a heavy weight for 2 more nights in the refrigerator, hanging them to dry in a cool, shady place during the day. Continue this procedure for 5 to 7 days. Drying time will depend on the weather. The more dampness in the air, the longer it will take to dry.
6. Chor Mees will be ready to serve when the exterior is hardened.
7. Store in the refrigerator if using right away. Otherwise, slice it and wrap in plastic bags, then store in the freezer. 
8. To serve: slice in thin pieces, and serve with pita bread, or fry and serve with eggs. Delicious!

Chicken in a Pot

In response to Jennifer G.’s search for a recipe for Armenian chicken in a pot with potatoes, Ara Kassabian offered the following suggestion. Now we await Jennifer’s thoughts.



“Jennifer's chicken in a pot sounds like an Armenian version of an etouffee. The two key missing pieces of information are: 1) what were the herbs she mentions? and 2) was there any sauce (like tomato sauce)? Despite this, however, it sounds pretty simple. Here is one suggestion:


1 whole chicken (2-3 pounds), cut up
2 medium size potatoes, sliced into 1/2 inch slices
Salt, pepper
Fresh herbs (see below)
Vegetable oil, such as safflower, canola, etc., or clarified butter
Chopped garlic?


Armenians from different parts of Armenia would most likely use different herbs. Not knowing anything about Jennifer's grandmas, I am suggesting using 1 bunch of either tarragon or dill or savory. Personally, I would go for the tarragon. Just wash the herbs, take the leafs off the stem but leave them whole.


Depending on the herb you use, you might want to consider adding some chopped garlic. If so, use sparingly so as not to overpower the flavor of the herbs.

Preparation:


Coat the bottom of a dutch oven or tight-fitting pot with the oil (about 2-3 tbsp). Layer the potatoes at the bottom (one layer), then layer the chicken pieces on top, starting with the dark meat. Salt and pepper as you go. Add a 1/4 cup water. If you are using garlic, add the garlic.


Note: The pot should be big enough that the food should not come up to more than halfway. If not using a dutch oven, you could tie a kitchen towel around the lid to improve the seal. In the old days, they would use dough, formed into a ring.

Cover tightly, bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer for about 1/2 hour. Open the pot, quickly pile the herbs on top and close. If the water has completely evaporated, then add a little water (a few tablespoons at most). Close again and place on the fire for another 1/2 hour. Even though Jennifer says it would cook all day, I don't think it should take more than an hour, depending on the size of the chicken (maybe two hours). It occurs to me that you could equally well make this in the oven, if you have an oven-proof dish. Maybe a couple of hours at 350F.


When it's done, let it rest for a few minutes, then serve. I would suggest serving with a sauce on the side. Depending on the herbs you use, I could do a quick lemon-garlic sauce, or even a sweet chutney (maybe some apricot jam diluted in a little water, butter, with some ground walnut).


An Armenian friend of my mom (from the Republic of Armenia) had a similar, very simple chicken recipe: Take a whole, cut up, chicken, 1 cup rice, put them in a pressure cooker with very little water (about a cup?) and of course salt/pepper. Cook it for about 1/2 hour. I think you could also layer potatoes at the bottom of the pressure cooker. They would get crispy on the bottom. There is no need for fat because the chicken renders its own fat.

Cherry Liqueur

Photo from stumptownsavoury.com

An interesting recipe for Cherry Liqueur just came my way via Annie Samuelian Alexanian. I’m in a hurry to post this because the cherry's peak season is just about over. So rush to the market while fresh cherries are still available!

In order to make cherry liqueur, start with the best cherries you can find, add the necessary ingredients, and let it ferment so that it will be ready to serve by Christmas.


Annie says:
“For one kilogram( 2.2 lbs.) of cherries, (I use the) same amount of sugar. I use whole cherries stems removed. I add half bottle of gin and half bottle of arak (it's like vodka with anise flavor) adding whole cloves and cinnamon sticks. I keep the jar for several months,@ xmas time it's ready to be served after being chilled in the fridge."

Clarification: When Annie says she keeps the cherry mixture in the jar for several months, the jar is kept at room temperature. Once opened, keep the jar in the refrigerator.

Chemen (Chaman,Chaiman)

When reader, Bob, asked for a recipe for chamanichur, it turned out what he really wanted was  a sauce recipe containing chaman (chaiman, chemen). His grandmother used to make it and serve it with liver. You might best-know this recipe as the pasty coating that coversbasterma, however, chamanichur is thinned out. When I sent Bob a recipe I found in one of my Armenian Church cookbooks, he was overjoyed and anxious to make it.  One BIG catch: he lives in Spain, and finding fenugreek became a monumental challenge. Fortunately, Bob was able to find a source on the internet, and promptly placed an order for ground fenugreek seeds. Bob promises to send a photo of his finished product once he has all of the necessary ingredients.

So, what is fenugreek, you ask? Fenugreek is an aromatic plant with pleasingly bitter, slightly sweet seeds, used as a spice. The leaves, which aren’t readily available in the United States, can be used as an herb in salads. The leaves and sprouts of the plant can also be eaten as vegetables.
Fenugreek seeds can be purchased whole or ground, and generally are used in curry powders, spice blends and teas.

Wikipedia notes the following:

1. For arthritis sufferers: It is believed that drinking 1 cup of fenugreek tea per day, made from the leaves, can help relieve the discomfort of arthritis pain. 
(Too bad the leaves are hard to find in the US; I might have to check into this, but  wonder if there would be any side effects, hmmmm.)

2. Fenugreek is a good source of high dietary fiber. Taking a few seeds with warm water before going to sleep helps avoid constipation.

And now for the recipe…

Chemen
From the cookbook ’Armenian Cuisine: Preserving Our Heritage’, St. John Armenian Church, Southfield, Michigan. Recipe submitted by: Nancy Kazarian and Dolly Matoian

Ingredients:
½ cup ground fenugreek seeds (chemen)
½ cup paprika
4 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. cayenne (red pepper)
4 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. pepper
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
7/8 to 1 cup water

Directions:
1. Using amount desired, combine in a large bowl, all ingredients except the garlic and water.
2. Add the crushed garlic according to your taste. Begin adding water, a little at a time, so that the mixture has the consistency of cake batter.
3. This mixture can be used in various geragoors  with spinach, lamb, etc., or in Armenian hamburgers, or even in pastry dough for mezza. It can be kept in a plastic bag or bottle in the freezer, to be used as needed. The recipe may be doubled or tripled.

Homemade Basterma - a Labor of Love

Not everyone is fortunate enough to have a Middle Eastern store nearby to purchase ready-to-eat favorites. 
Just ask reader Mario of Queensland, Australia. He requested a recipe for homemade basterma because there's no place for him to buy it, and his local butcher can't create this recipe for him. Mario, originally from Alexandria,Egypt, said the best basterma in Egypt was made by the Armenian community. In Australia, he was able to buy thinly sliced basterma in Melbourne and Sydney, but noted that no one in Queensland even knows what it is.

Depending on where you live, October and November are said to be the best months for making this favored delicacy. (Mario reminded me that Australia's seasons are opposite those of North America, so those months don't necessarily work for him.)

Making homemade basterma requires the patience of a saint. You’ve got to set aside plenty of time for curing the meat. Mario, I hope you're a patient guy!


Top-quality meat is the key to tender basterma, and having a favorable relationship with the local butcher is a must.

When you’re ready to tackle the job, tell the butcher what you are planning to make, then ask him to cut a 2 to 3 pound piece of boneless beef from the rib section about 1 to 1 ½ inches thick. 

If, after reading the directions, you’re concerned about the food safety aspect of making basterma, don’t worry. According to Irina Petrossian, author of “Armenian Food - Fact, Fiction and Folklore”, bacterial growth (in basterma) is prevented because the meat is dry-cured with salt, and, because fenugreek is a key ingredient in the paste, it acts as a natural insect repellent. 

Feel better? Roll up your sleeves, put on your apron, and give it a go...

Homemade Basterma


2 to 3 lbs. boneless beef (from rib section, 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)
½ cup Kosher salt
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For the Paste:


1/4 cup paprika
1/4 cup chaman (ground fenugreek seeds) - Found in specialty shops or well-stocked grocery or Middle Eastern stores
1 tablespoon allspice
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp cumin
½ tsp cayenne pepper
3 small cloves garlic, pressed or finely minced

1 cup (or more) cold water

Directions:


Using a fork, pierce the meat all over. This will allow the salt to penetrate. Cut the meat in two equal pieces, then with a large needle, thread a heavy twine or string through one end of each piece of the meat and tie it into a loop. This will be used to hang the meat when curing. 

Generously sprinkle each section of meat with Kosher salt on all sides. Lay meat on a pan and refrigerate for 3 days. Turn meat once a day to keep coated with salt.

On the fourth day, remove salt from the meat. Wash meat thoroughly, then soak in cold water for about an hour. Drain and pat meat dry using paper towels, making sure excess moisture is removed.

Create 2 bags out of cheesecloth to hold each section of meat. Place meat in bags, and hang from the loops in a cool dry place** - or the refrigerator - for about 2 weeks. 


(**If you hang the meat in a cool dry place rather than the refrigerator, be sure to bring the meat inside if the weather becomes rainy or damp.)

After the 2 weeks are up, combine all of the ingredients for making the paste, stirring in water a little at a time. Stir until a smooth, thin paste is formed. (Note: the paste can be made in advance and kept in the refrigerator until ready to use.)

Remove the meat from the cloth bags, saving them for later use. 

Cover the dried meat completely with the paste; let stand for about 2 weeks in a pan. Turn the meat every couple of days to keep covered with the paste. At the end of the second week, remove meat from the paste and return each piece to the cloth bags. Hang outdoors for one more week of drying. Remember, if it’s damp outside, hang the basterma in a cool dry place inside.

After the second drying period, the basterma will be ready to serve.

To serve, slice into paper-thin pieces. Best eaten with lavash, olives and Armenian string cheese. (A little Arak wouldn't hurt either!)


To store, keep in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator. 
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Now that Mario has the recipe, he understands why prepared basterma is so expensive. To make it at home is truly a labor of love.